I’d never ridden waves like that in my life. I found myself on a surf trip in the middle of the Indian Ocean with some of the top watermen in the world, surfing these waves that were way out of my league. I just quit my lucrative, stable job at Vans to become a freelance journalist, which was definitely not a guarantee. So I partake in sometimes drawing an occasional sand wiener on the beach, too. Someone drew a sand wiener on the beach the other day and I was running and I saw it and it just made me laugh out loud. I’m a lover of harmless, debaucherous, joyful, fun. I’m passionate about helping people improve their lives using nature and adventure. I’m the author of a new book, Will to Wild: Adventures Great and Small to Change Your Life. I am a podcaster, a storyteller, a people talker. I grew up in Cardiff by the Sea, California on the beach, and I live one town over in Solana Beach. Shelby Stanger is a pretty rare wild name itself, so that’s usually what I go by. There’s definitely nicknames: Shelby Stranger, Stanger Mouse. I decided to drop in on this one wave, and I really believe one wave can totally change your life. And I could have played the journalist card, but eventually I had to get out of the boat and actually ride some waves, and I was terrified. It’s about day four of this surf trip, standup paddle surfing these remote waves off of Indonesia. It has been edited for length and clarity. Shelby Stanger told her story to producer Paddy O’Connell for an episode of The Daily Rally podcast.
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